(2018-04-04, 17:50)Bibio Wrote: [ -> ]so can someone please explain to me why it matters what your desktop display mode is set to.
The video player (Kodi DSPlayer or otherwise) outputs to the GPU. The GPU then outputs to the display. So you want your output bit depth in madVR to match the output bit depth of the GPU to keep the video processing chain as lossless as possible. This is also why WASAPI Exclusive is used for audio; to avoid any interference from the audio renderer to the AVR or display. RGB Full is considered lossless in most cases, even though madVR has to convert from YCbCr to RGB to start the process.
The refresh rate of the GPU must be considered. The desktop defaults to 60hz but changes to match the video refresh rate in most cases. So you can have different RGB values and different bit depths in the GPU control panel for different refresh rates. It is the GPU that ultimately dictates what is sent to the display, so it is important to configure this correctly. madVR attempts to process the video in the highest-quality possible, and you want the GPU to passthrough this output as faithfully as possible. This would be RGB Full from madVR to RGB Full from the GPU, in most cases. And you need your display to be set to RGB Full, as well.
(2018-04-04, 18:53)Bibio Wrote: [ -> ]so my assumption is correct.. cool
another question,
can you force chroma subsampling switching within dsplayer and its renderers or filters?
if so how is it done?
I assume you mean change from 4:4:4 output to 4:2:2, which would downsample the chroma upscaling done by madVR. No, only the GPU can do this, and you don't want to do this, if possible.
(2018-04-04, 16:44)Bibio Wrote: [ -> ]spencerjford,
you are correct but fail to recognise that the settings are only for when you are using Kodi's built in videoplayer and Kodi's GUI.
if using dsplayer then LAV audio takes over for bitstreaming. as such the use of wasapi for HD audio is null and void.
some AVR's dont have "send low signal noise" function to keep such things as "auto standby" off on other connected equipment for which a subwoofer is one of them. so we need to keep the audio device alive that we are using in kodi to sent a low signal to the subwoofer or indeed active speakers etc.etc to stop them going into standby. if you dont want to keep your subwoofer/active speakers alive or your AVR has the same function then turn the setting off in kodi.
NO, I do fully understand that. But regardless, that setting STILL applies, that send low signal noise. It's ACTIVE when y ou are not watching a video. it's always sending a low signal noise, and the AVR may not catch the change from the video sound to instantly the KODI send low signal noise.
I'm saying, try turn that off, and see what happens. See if your AVR turns off the audio format last sent.
(2018-04-04, 20:41)spencerjford Wrote: [ -> ] (2018-04-04, 16:44)Bibio Wrote: [ -> ]spencerjford,
you are correct but fail to recognise that the settings are only for when you are using Kodi's built in videoplayer and Kodi's GUI.
if using dsplayer then LAV audio takes over for bitstreaming. as such the use of wasapi for HD audio is null and void.
some AVR's dont have "send low signal noise" function to keep such things as "auto standby" off on other connected equipment for which a subwoofer is one of them. so we need to keep the audio device alive that we are using in kodi to sent a low signal to the subwoofer or indeed active speakers etc.etc to stop them going into standby. if you dont want to keep your subwoofer/active speakers alive or your AVR has the same function then turn the setting off in kodi.
NO, I do fully understand that. But regardless, that setting STILL applies, that send low signal noise. It's ACTIVE when y ou are not watching a video. it's always sending a low signal noise, and the AVR may not catch the change from the video sound to instantly the KODI send low signal noise.
I'm saying, try turn that off, and see what happens. See if your AVR turns off the audio format last sent.
tried that and it makes absolutely no difference.
btw see my other post about an apology..
mkohman, why so many edid entries under your avr?
I have no idea lol.. I was thinking the same.. ?? Shall I delete the others?
@
mkohman,
Just two things. The desktop is set to 8-bits RGB at 60hz. But what about at 23hz? You are outputting from madVR at 10-bits, so you want the GPU to be set to 10-bits RGB at 23hz. Play a video and return to the GPU control panel while it is playing. Set it to 10-bits RGB. It doesn’t matter what madVR reports.
Second, you have disabled calibration controls, which means madVR defaults to BT.709. Your projector is calibrated to BT.2020, so it must convert from BT.709. You can do this in madVR by selecting this display is already calibrated and setting it to BT.2020. The gamma doesn’t matter as it’s ignored, but try and guess the gamma, too.
Some debanding at low/medium wouldn’t hurt. This won’t remove any image detail and can help with the odd Blu-ray, even if it is uncompressed.
(2018-04-05, 00:43)Warner306 Wrote: [ -> ]@mkohman,
Just two things. The desktop is set to 8-bits RGB at 60hz. But what about at 23hz? You are outputting from madVR at 10-bits, so you want the GPU to be set to 10-bits RGB at 23hz. Play a video and return to the GPU control panel while it is playing. Set it to 10-bits RGB. It doesn’t matter what madVR reports.
Second, you have disabled calibration controls, which means madVR defaults to BT.709. Your projector is calibrated to BT.2020, so it must convert from BT.709. You can do this in madVR by selecting this display is already calibrated and setting it to BT.2020. The gamma doesn’t matter as it’s ignored, but try and guess the gamma, too.
Some debanding at low/medium wouldn’t hurt. This won’t remove any image detail and can help with the odd Blu-ray, even if it is uncompressed.
Thank you so much, so let me just confirm... You are saying that I should change my desktop refresh rate to 23hz, is this correct? In doing so this will enable me to select 10Bit with RGB 4:4:4? as it currently only allows me to select 8 bit RGB 4:4:4
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I will select the "display is calibrated" and choose BT2020? Then I will choose a Gamma of 2.4? Is this also correct?
Thank you so much and would appreciate if you could confirm.. Maybe the black out screens were happening because my desktop was set to 60hz and all movies are at 23 or 24hz so it keeps changing refresh rates when playing and stopping video and possibly getting hung up in between so may actually help keeping it at 23hz? Is yours at 23 hz 10bit RGB 4:4:4? thanks..
Finally my RX560 4GB states recommended PSU 400w , I have a 300W in my HTPC but I am not powering anything other than the motherboard , the 120GB SSD Drive and the RX560 4GB .. Do you think this is sufficient power for the GPU ? May the screen black out be because of that
Thanks for your help..