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ODROID C2 S905 2GB RAM HDMI 2.0 $46
(2016-05-31, 04:33)MidnightWatcher Wrote:
(2016-05-30, 21:17)pigeldi Wrote: Thanks to wrxtasy there seems to be a proper version of LibreELEC now, but it looks like this depends (at least currently) on one single person. So if he stops developing or moves to the successor of the C2, there might not be any updated Kodi versions, as they have to be built into the OS, right?
My gut fealing is that the RPi has a bigger community and a higher chance of long-term support from OpenELEC or similar. Am I seeing things too negative or could it realistically happen that e.g. in 2 years after Kodi v19 I would be stuck and not receive any further updates? Software support would currently be the only reason why probably rather buying a RPi3.

LibreELEC will be officially supporting the C2 starting with version 8.0. Support for this device will only get better.

RoflRoflRoflRoflRofl
Reply
(2016-05-31, 07:34)GFMLS Wrote: I'm wanting to know if there is a way to power on/off Odroid C2 board with a Infrared remote. I've read through the Odroid forums and found Konek's project: http://forum.odroid.com/viewtopic.php?f=...587#p94114. Unfortunately I don't have the knowledge and skills to re-create his add-on board. I like the ability of shutting down the board without pulling the plug either from the wall or micro USB port. I have a C1+ now and after a few days of being on, the board LED's stop blinking and Openelec freezes. I end up having to re-power the system a lot. I stopped using the C1+ in favor of my Raspberry Pi due to having a RemotePi board setup with it.

I was wondering if anyone has tried using the RemotePi Board with either the C1+ or C2 or if there are any other alternatives I don't know about. Thanks for you time and help.

Hi!
I do have a (msldigital) RemotePi Board 2015 testing on my Odroid C2. I don't know which remote Pi you do have (the Pi1, Pi2, or even the recent Pi3 version?), but technically it is working somehow indeed.

Speaking for my RemotePi board 2015 (for Pi2):
  • It does not fit because the Odroids heatsink is interferring with some parts:
    Image
  • To connect it somehow to the Odroid you obviously need wires instead of just putting it ontop to extend the connection and avoid interferring with heatsink. But wachout for the cables diameter, as the current could be high. I am just testing right now.
  • Additionally the RemotePis GPIO pins 8 and 10 need to be connected to different ones on the Odroid C2 because there seem to be some conflict right now. But as you need to use cables for connecting the RemotePi anyway, this is not a big deal anymore (just repinning the cables to other GPIO). Hopefully the conflict can be solved somehow...
  • After connecting it successfully: Booting up by pressing the powerbutton/IR-Remote is working fine as expected, as this not relies on any script or communication with the board.
  • The Odroid C2 needs also a over-current protection polyfuse for ~2.6A just like the new Board for RPi3 has. So if trying to get full electrical compatibility it should be the last RemotePi revision with 2.6A (RemotePi 2016) instead of 2A (remotePi 2015) current. Refer to this post from Odroid defelopers (http://forum.odroid.com/viewtopic.php?f=...85#p142946). But a lower polyfuse is better than having a too high... so this will just trigger protection earlier and not too late... so far so good Wink

  • So coming to the actual purpose - powering down: After adjusting the msldigital shutdown script (new GPIO port-reference) kodi indeed powers off after pressing the RemoteControl off-button. But for some reason the RemotePi Board does not cut the power afterwards yet.

Actually it should do it the same way as on the Raspberry (after 3 Seconds), but it does not for now. I am in mailcontact with the msl-digital developer to sort out this issue, but we haven't found the reason yet. But I'm quite confident this will happen the next few weeks Smile

This sounds like a lot of trouble... but actually its only extending the headerconnection and changing one line in the script. The power-cut-off issue is a work in progress.

You could mail the developer to ask whether he is willing to build a revision of his board especially for the Odroid C2 in the future... If he sees that there is a demand, then he perhaps will think about it in the future Smile
Reply
(2016-05-31, 12:15)wrxtasy Wrote: Very common dirt cheap CSR 4.0 BT USB dongles have no issues on any ODROID's including C2 if that is what you have already.

was thinking of the one supplied by Hardkernal

http://www.hardkernel.com/main/products/...1656580698
Reply
(2016-05-31, 12:13)danfloss Wrote: Is it worth getting the bluetooth module with the C2 as i have two bluetooth remotes and like the idea of the unit hidden away out of sight

I've had no problems using £1 BT USB Dongles from Poundland with Kodi if you need one.
Reply
(2016-05-30, 18:43)wrxtasy Wrote: Suggestion > Normal TV, no HDMI CEC devices like AVR's connected.
In my case, removing the AVR is not an option with my setup (Pioneer VSX-824 --> Epson 5030UB projector). The receiver should do straight HDMI passthrough of the video without altering it in any way.

(2016-05-30, 18:43)wrxtasy Wrote: Not seeing skipped frames or judder either and I do have an extensive set of FPS test files....
I've still yet to do more testing as I ended up being out of town yesterday evening and I don't have the C2 in front of me at the moment but, while brainstorming right now, is it me or is there no way to select the the A/V sync method on the C2 like we can on the Rpi2/3? If we enable syncing playback to the display on the RPis the "Adjust PLL" sync method seems to do a great job of alleviating some annoyances. Not sure if this is something that can be incorporated into a C2 test build or not given the relative newness of the C2 hardware.
My Theater: JVC X790R + Peerless PRG-UNV | 120" CineWhite UHD-B Screen | KODI Nexus + PreShow Experience | mpv | madVR 204 RTX 2070S | Panasonic UB420 | Denon X3600H @ 5.2.4 | 4 x ADX Maximus w/ Dayton Audio SA230 | 3 x Totem Tribe LCR + Mission M30 Surrounds + SVS PC2000 + Monolith 15 | 40" HDTV w/ Z83 + MoviePosterApp | 40TB Win10 SMB Server over Gigabit Ethernet
Reply
(2016-05-30, 21:17)pigeldi Wrote: Hello,
my Kodi is running on my outdated Asrock Ion since 2010, meanwhile RPi & co. are faster, so I am slowly thinking about moving to such a device. Instead of the RPi3 the Odroid C2 looks very interesting to me. Not much more expensive but nicer hardware. However the question of software support comes to my mind. Thanks to wrxtasy there seems to be a proper version of LibreELEC now, but it looks like this depends (at least currently) on one single person. So if he stops developing or moves to the successor of the C2, there might not be any updated Kodi versions, as they have to be built into the OS, right?
My gut fealing is that the RPi has a bigger community and a higher chance of long-term support from OpenELEC or similar. Am I seeing things too negative or could it realistically happen that e.g. in 2 years after Kodi v19 I would be stuck and not receive any further updates? Software support would currently be the only reason why probably rather buying a RPi3.

Wrxtasy is doing a great job. I wish he could bring the improvements also in android area. Development in Android for c1 or c2 is so so behind librelec for the same devices.
Reply
(2016-05-31, 13:51)infinity85 Wrote:
(2016-05-31, 07:34)GFMLS Wrote: I'm wanting to know if there is a way to power on/off Odroid C2 board with a Infrared remote. I've read through the Odroid forums and found Konek's project: http://forum.odroid.com/viewtopic.php?f=...587#p94114. Unfortunately I don't have the knowledge and skills to re-create his add-on board. I like the ability of shutting down the board without pulling the plug either from the wall or micro USB port. I have a C1+ now and after a few days of being on, the board LED's stop blinking and Openelec freezes. I end up having to re-power the system a lot. I stopped using the C1+ in favor of my Raspberry Pi due to having a RemotePi board setup with it.

I was wondering if anyone has tried using the RemotePi Board with either the C1+ or C2 or if there are any other alternatives I don't know about. Thanks for you time and help.

Hi!
I do have a (msldigital) RemotePi Board 2015 testing on my Odroid C2. I don't know which remote Pi you do have (the Pi1, Pi2, or even the recent Pi3 version?), but technically it is working somehow indeed.

Speaking for my RemotePi board 2015 (for Pi2):
  • It does not fit because the Odroids heatsink is interferring with some parts:
    Image
  • To connect it somehow to the Odroid you obviously need wires instead of just putting it ontop to extend the connection and avoid interferring with heatsink. But wachout for the cables diameter, as the current could be high. I am just testing right now.
  • Additionally the RemotePis GPIO pins 8 and 10 need to be connected to different ones on the Odroid C2 because there seem to be some conflict right now. But as you need to use cables for connecting the RemotePi anyway, this is not a big deal anymore (just repinning the cables to other GPIO). Hopefully the conflict can be solved somehow...
  • After connecting it successfully: Booting up by pressing the powerbutton/IR-Remote is working fine as expected, as this not relies on any script or communication with the board.
  • The Odroid C2 needs also a over-current protection polyfuse for ~2.6A just like the new Board for RPi3 has. So if trying to get full electrical compatibility it should be the last RemotePi revision with 2.6A (RemotePi 2016) instead of 2A (remotePi 2015) current. Refer to this post from Odroid defelopers (http://forum.odroid.com/viewtopic.php?f=...85#p142946). But a lower polyfuse is better than having a too high... so this will just trigger protection earlier and not too late... so far so good Wink

  • So coming to the actual purpose - powering down: After adjusting the msldigital shutdown script (new GPIO port-reference) kodi indeed powers off after pressing the RemoteControl off-button. But for some reason the RemotePi Board does not cut the power afterwards yet.

Actually it should do it the same way as on the Raspberry (after 3 Seconds), but it does not for now. I am in mailcontact with the msl-digital developer to sort out this issue, but we haven't found the reason yet. But I'm quite confident this will happen the next few weeks Smile

This sounds like a lot of trouble... but actually its only extending the headerconnection and changing one line in the script. The power-cut-off issue is a work in progress.

You could mail the developer to ask whether he is willing to build a revision of his board especially for the Odroid C2 in the future... If he sees that there is a demand, then he perhaps will think about it in the future Smile

Thank you for your response and help. I was thinking the only possible RemotePi Board that would fit would be (external IR and LED) due to heatsink being in the way. I currently have both RemotePi Board for Pi 2 and B+ & RemotePi Board for Pi 3 (both internal IR and LED). However, technically I could use the one I already have since it's not being mounted directly on top of the Odroid C2 due to using jumper wires instead.

Just a few questions:
What size AWG are you using for the jumper wires since I don't want to large diameter wire?
With the RemotePis GPIO pins 8 and 10, what pins are you wiring those to on the Odroid C2?
What lines of the script need to be modified or added?
Would love to get this working on my C1+, do you think its possible with the same way you just described?

I really enjoy the RemotePi Boards on my Pi's and would be awesome for Odroid products. Like you said, hopefully enough demand for Odroid boards will allow msldigital developer to create products for it. I will e-mail them again and add my support for this purpose.
Reply
(2016-05-31, 21:02)GFMLS Wrote: Thank you for your response and help. I was thinking the only possible RemotePi Board that would fit would be (external IR and LED) due to heatsink being in the way. I currently have both RemotePi Board for Pi 2 and B+ & RemotePi Board for Pi 3 (both internal IR and LED). However, technically I could use the one I already have since it's not being mounted directly on top of the Odroid C2 due to using jumper wires instead.

Just a few questions:
What size AWG are you using for the jumper wires since I don't want to large diameter wire?
With the RemotePis GPIO pins 8 and 10, what pins are you wiring those to on the Odroid C2?
What lines of the script need to be modified or added?
Would love to get this working on my C1+, do you think its possible with the same way you just described?

I really enjoy the RemotePi Boards on my Pi's and would be awesome for Odroid products. Like you said, hopefully enough demand for Odroid boards will allow msldigital developer to create products for it. I will e-mail them again and add my support for this purpose.

  1. No, the board with external IR and LED won't fit. I own such a RemotePi Plus 2015 with external IR and LED (see the picture from my last post). And there I marked the interferring parts in red (the External IR and LED plug as well as a capacitor).
  2. As I had only simple jumper wires and I wanted to test it, I did not pay attention to any AWG values (don't have for those wires, which I had here). I just made sure not to load the board and also don't attach any USB devices which could raise the current on both 5V pins. As I said... it's just for testing purposes right now. Finally I will take some spare quite thick wires that I have somewhere at home for both 5V pins and both ground pins used by the Remote Pi
  3. I'm wiring original pin8(=GPIO14 on RPi2) to pin7(=GPIO249 on OdroidC2) and pin10(=GPIO15 on RPi2) to pin11(=GPIO247 on OdroidC2). (There must be some conflict with TX and RX and it might be possible to keep the wiring as it is, if deactivating somehow the RX and TX stuff.. but I don't know how.)
  4. You'd have to modify the 6. line of the irswitch.sh OpenELEC-script from "GPIOpin1=14" to "GPIOpin1=249"

    Code:
    #!/bin/bash
    # prevent restarting XBMC at shutdown. This is only used for OpenElec before V5
    LOCKDIR="/var/lock/"
    LOCKFILE="xbmc.disabled"
    # this is the GPIO pin receiving the shut-down signal
    GPIOpin1=249
    # functions
    add_omit_pids() {
    omit_pids="$omit_pids -o $1"
    }
    safe_shutdown () {
    # for OpenElec before V5
    touch "$LOCKDIR/$LOCKFILE"
    # for OpenElec V5 and later
    systemctl stop kodi
    add_omit_pids $(pidof connmand)
    add_omit_pids $(pidof dbus-daemon)
    killall5 -15 $omit_pids
    for seq in `seq 1 10` ; do
    usleep 500000
    clear > /dev/tty1
    killall5 -18 $omit_pids || break
    done
    sync
    umount -a >/dev/null 2>&1
    poweroff -f
    }

    echo "$GPIOpin1" > /sys/class/gpio/export
    echo "in" > /sys/class/gpio/gpio$GPIOpin1/direction
    while true; do
      sleep 1
      power=$(cat /sys/class/gpio/gpio$GPIOpin1/value)
      if [ $power != 0 ]; then
        echo "out" > /sys/class/gpio/gpio$GPIOpin1/direction
        echo "1" > /sys/class/gpio/gpio$GPIOpin1/value
        sleep 3
        safe_shutdown
      fi
    done

  5. And you should adapt lines 3 and 4 of the shutdown.sh OpenELEC-script[ from GPIOpin=15 to GPIOpin=247 and GPIOpin1=14 to GPIOpin1=249
    Code:
    #!/bin/bash
    if [ "$1" != "reboot" ]; then
      GPIOpin=247
      GPIOpin1=249
      echo "$GPIOpin" > /sys/class/gpio/export
      # execute shutdown sequence on pin
      echo "out" > /sys/class/gpio/gpio$GPIOpin/direction
      echo "1" > /sys/class/gpio/gpio$GPIOpin/value
      usleep 125000
      echo "0" > /sys/class/gpio/gpio$GPIOpin/value
      usleep 200000
      echo "1" > /sys/class/gpio/gpio$GPIOpin/value
      usleep 400000
      echo "0" > /sys/class/gpio/gpio$GPIOpin/value
      # set GPIO 14 high to feedback shutdown to RemotePi Board
      # because the irswitch.sh has already been terminated
      echo "$GPIOpin1" > /sys/class/gpio/export
      echo "out" > /sys/class/gpio/gpio$GPIOpin1/direction
      echo "1" > /sys/class/gpio/gpio$GPIOpin1/value
      usleep 4000000
    fi

  6. Don't forget, that it still does not automatically cut off the power of Odroid. The shutdown works, but the red LED remains on until the RemotePis timout (5Minutes) cuts the power. So at least it is shutting down kodi, but you will still have to wait 5 minutes until it really cuts off the power unfortunately. I hope there will be a solution soon. Otherwise (as far as I know) we can set the timeout to 10 or 20 seconds in the RemotePi's firmware configuration as a workaround.
  7. I don't know absolutely nothing about Odroid C1+ or so. As I have absolutely no skills in programming and in more than copying scripts and testing, I cannot give you an answer, but you could try it of course.

And I am also a big fan of the RemotePi as you, could not do without it, that's why I am testing it and willing to getting it to work properly Smile

@mods
I think it could be reasonable to move GFMLS initial question-post about RemotePi compatibility and his and my related posts into a seperate thread in "hardware and peripherals" section with a title... lets say "RemotePi Board (MSL Digital) compatibility with Odroid C2". But may be let his initial post here with a link to the moved thread. As the scripts and the use of this board fit pretty good to LibreELEC/OpenELEC.

EDIT@mods
My suggestion/request for moving this topic to hardware and peripherals is obviously nonsense Laugh.. I simply confused this forum with the forum.odroid.com ... for that Angel
Reply
I'm thinking of buying a c2 to replace a WDTV player that has just died. A few questions:

1. I run Kodi on a windows 10 PC in my study and access all my media on a Synology NAS via smb. Can I copy the Kodi library database onto the c2 so I don't have to rescrape?

2. I see Flirc is mentioned a few times in this thread. Any issues with it and the c2?

3. Any issues running a wireless keyboard e.g logitech k400?

4. Anyone here bought a c2 in Australia? If so, where from?

Thanks
Reply
(2016-06-01, 12:05)Rubicon99 Wrote: I'm thinking of buying a c2 to replace a WDTV player that has just died. A few questions:

1. I run Kodi on a windows 10 PC in my study and access all my media on a Synology NAS via smb. Can I copy the Kodi library database onto the c2 so I don't have to rescrape?
Yes you can export the database to a network share, however my advice would be to run an SQL DB and scrape with only one device.

Quote:3. Any issues running a wireless keyboard e.g logitech k400?
k400 behaves like a normal keyboard no additional drivers are required, it should work out of the box.

Quote:4. Anyone here bought a c2 in Australia? If so, where from?
Thanks
Check here: http://www.hardkernel.com/main/distributor.php
Reply
I bit the bullet and ordered one to play around with. Not exactly cheap at $130CAD shipped with a 16GB eMMC, case, and power supply but it seems like it has a lot of potential.

What is the likelihood of seeing a more recent kernel on the C2? Will an outdated kernel limit development on the C2 or will it apply more to issues with attached devices?
Reply
(2016-06-01, 03:16)infinity85 Wrote:
  1. No, the board with external IR and LED won't fit. I own such a RemotePi Plus 2015 with external IR and LED (see the picture from my last post). And there I marked the interferring parts in red (the External IR and LED plug as well as a capacitor).
  2. As I had only simple jumper wires and I wanted to test it, I did not pay attention to any AWG values (don't have for those wires, which I had here). I just made sure not to load the board and also don't attach any USB devices which could raise the current on both 5V pins. As I said... it's just for testing purposes right now. Finally I will take some spare quite thick wires that I have somewhere at home for both 5V pins and both ground pins used by the Remote Pi
  3. I'm wiring original pin8(=GPIO14 on RPi2) to pin7(=GPIO249 on OdroidC2) and pin10(=GPIO15 on RPi2) to pin11(=GPIO247 on OdroidC2). (There must be some conflict with TX and RX and it might be possible to keep the wiring as it is, if deactivating somehow the RX and TX stuff.. but I don't know how.)
  4. You'd have to modify the 6. line of the irswitch.sh OpenELEC-script from "GPIOpin1=14" to "GPIOpin1=249"

    Code:
    #!/bin/bash
    # prevent restarting XBMC at shutdown. This is only used for OpenElec before V5
    LOCKDIR="/var/lock/"
    LOCKFILE="xbmc.disabled"
    # this is the GPIO pin receiving the shut-down signal
    GPIOpin1=249
    # functions
    add_omit_pids() {
    omit_pids="$omit_pids -o $1"
    }
    safe_shutdown () {
    # for OpenElec before V5
    touch "$LOCKDIR/$LOCKFILE"
    # for OpenElec V5 and later
    systemctl stop kodi
    add_omit_pids $(pidof connmand)
    add_omit_pids $(pidof dbus-daemon)
    killall5 -15 $omit_pids
    for seq in `seq 1 10` ; do
    usleep 500000
    clear > /dev/tty1
    killall5 -18 $omit_pids || break
    done
    sync
    umount -a >/dev/null 2>&1
    poweroff -f
    }

    echo "$GPIOpin1" > /sys/class/gpio/export
    echo "in" > /sys/class/gpio/gpio$GPIOpin1/direction
    while true; do
      sleep 1
      power=$(cat /sys/class/gpio/gpio$GPIOpin1/value)
      if [ $power != 0 ]; then
        echo "out" > /sys/class/gpio/gpio$GPIOpin1/direction
        echo "1" > /sys/class/gpio/gpio$GPIOpin1/value
        sleep 3
        safe_shutdown
      fi
    done

  5. And you should adapt lines 3 and 4 of the shutdown.sh OpenELEC-script[ from GPIOpin=15 to GPIOpin=247 and GPIOpin1=14 to GPIOpin1=249
    Code:
    #!/bin/bash
    if [ "$1" != "reboot" ]; then
      GPIOpin=247
      GPIOpin1=249
      echo "$GPIOpin" > /sys/class/gpio/export
      # execute shutdown sequence on pin
      echo "out" > /sys/class/gpio/gpio$GPIOpin/direction
      echo "1" > /sys/class/gpio/gpio$GPIOpin/value
      usleep 125000
      echo "0" > /sys/class/gpio/gpio$GPIOpin/value
      usleep 200000
      echo "1" > /sys/class/gpio/gpio$GPIOpin/value
      usleep 400000
      echo "0" > /sys/class/gpio/gpio$GPIOpin/value
      # set GPIO 14 high to feedback shutdown to RemotePi Board
      # because the irswitch.sh has already been terminated
      echo "$GPIOpin1" > /sys/class/gpio/export
      echo "out" > /sys/class/gpio/gpio$GPIOpin1/direction
      echo "1" > /sys/class/gpio/gpio$GPIOpin1/value
      usleep 4000000
    fi

  6. Don't forget, that it still does not automatically cut off the power of Odroid. The shutdown works, but the red LED remains on until the RemotePis timout (5Minutes) cuts the power. So at least it is shutting down kodi, but you will still have to wait 5 minutes until it really cuts off the power unfortunately. I hope there will be a solution soon. Otherwise (as far as I know) we can set the timeout to 10 or 20 seconds in the RemotePi's firmware configuration as a workaround.
  7. I don't know absolutely nothing about Odroid C1+ or so. As I have absolutely no skills in programming and in more than copying scripts and testing, I cannot give you an answer, but you could try it of course.

And I am also a big fan of the RemotePi as you, could not do without it, that's why I am testing it and willing to getting it to work properly Smile

@mods
I think it could be reasonable to move GFMLS initial question-post about RemotePi compatibility and his and my related posts into a seperate thread in "hardware and peripherals" section with a title... lets say "RemotePi Board (MSL Digital) compatibility with Odroid C2". But may be let his initial post here with a link to the moved thread. As the scripts and the use of this board fit pretty good to LibreELEC/OpenELEC.

EDIT@mods
My suggestion/request for moving this topic to hardware and peripherals is obviously nonsense Laugh.. I simply confused this forum with the forum.odroid.com ... for that Angel


Great work, I really appreciate your instructions and detailed analysis. I will test this setup when I get the opportunity. I never use the USB ports so keeping voltage low shouldn't be a problem. The 5 minute shut off for the RemotePi board should work fine for me better then not at all.
Reply
(2016-06-01, 20:42)GFMLS Wrote: Great work, I really appreciate your instructions and detailed analysis. I will test this setup when I get the opportunity. I never use the USB ports so keeping voltage low shouldn't be a problem. The 5 minute shut off for the RemotePi board should work fine for me better then not at all.

Well...Even without any USB drive etc a jumper wire would be too thin I guess. At least there are two of the 5V and ground connections, but still I would be careful :/. Yesterday Matt (msldigital developer) and I found out why the automatic power cut off does not work. The odroid somehow does not lower the GPIO pins 3.3V output after shutdown, it simply stays high at 3.3V. Though, the RemotePi board waits for the voltage to lower itself to 0V after shutdown (thats how the Raspberry Pi behave...it also saves power and is absolutely logic). But as this does not happen, the RemotePi does not cut off the power and waits for ~5 min (may be 3 min... I didn't count it) and then it finally does it. I've had a look at the option of firmware configuration tool and there is no setting for this timeout unfortunately. But Matt said he'll think about a solution. So may be he'll have an idea in the future for this Smile. Meanwhile you'll have to live with the timeout.

Besides this:
The RemotePi Board does have an IR sensor as does the Odroid C2 have one. Out of logic I think that controlling of LibreELEC does work directly via the Odroid IR sensor. The RemotePi sensor is then only used for the power-on-off signals. But as the result is the same (same responsiveness). this is just a side note.
Reply
Hi all,

Long time browser, first time poster.

Just purchased the C2 from Hard Kernel along with a 8GB eMMC.

I've noticed that there's a speed difference between the 8GB and 16GB.

Samsung 8GB Write: 45.4 MB
Samsung 8GB Read: 113 MB

Samsung 16GB Write: 80.1 MB
Samsung 16GB Read: 126 MB

Will the 8GB be plenty fast or should I be canceling the 8GB and getting the 16GB?

Will be using LibreElec.
High read speeds are preferred over write for Kodi correct?

Cheers all,

Richie
Reply
(2016-06-02, 07:24)richpags Wrote: Hi all,

Long time browser, first time poster.

Just purchased the C2 from Hard Kernel along with a 8GB eMMC.

I've noticed that there's a speed difference between the 8GB and 16GB.

Samsung 8GB Write: 45.4 MB
Samsung 8GB Read: 113 MB

Samsung 16GB Write: 80.1 MB
Samsung 16GB Read: 126 MB

Will the 8GB be plenty fast or should I be canceling the 8GB and getting the 16GB?

Will be using LibreElec.
High read speeds are preferred over write for Kodi correct?

Cheers all,

Richie

Correct, read speeds are more important. I however went with the 16GB eMMC to be on the conservative size for storage space. Depending on the size of your library, thus the size of your database and thumbnails folders, 8GB could be cutting fine. If it isn't too late I would probably cancel the order and spend the extra $10 on the 16GB eMMC, but that is just my opinion.
Reply
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ODROID C2 S905 2GB RAM HDMI 2.0 $4610