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Win HOW TO - Set up madVR for Kodi DSPlayer & External Players
(2019-09-11, 22:33)EviL GaMer Wrote:
(2019-09-11, 12:48)Warner306 Wrote: There could be several variables that might cause the present queue to empty. The most likely cause would be that rendering times are right at the edge of what the card can handle and are pushing it over the edge at certain points. Network latency in transfering large file rips could also be the cause, but the decoder queue would also be empty if that were the case.

For starters, post an OSD screenshot (Ctrl + J) when the present queue is empty and post it here with an image host such as postimage.

Also test your network transfer speeds with this test to ensure you are getting Gigabit speeds: LAN Speed Test.
Here's the link to the OSD.

I looked at it more and the decoder queue seems to get down a little bit as do subtitles, upload and render. Up to the point of the screenshot dropped frames were 0 and repeated frames were 6. They kept rising while the queue was empty obviously. The moment I started taking the screenshot it continued perfectly fine, as if nothing happened. 

Based on your screenshot, I'd guess your settings are too aggressive or you are running out of VRAM. Try lowering your settings to something that produces low rendering times.
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(2019-09-12, 01:15)Cinephile Wrote: @Warner306

What are your thoughts on the Kodi 19 fork with native HDR implementation for NVIDIA users? I have just come back to v18.4 as I noticed very subtle video stutter in v19.

Also, I observed that with madVR when I first start playback it drops 20-30 frames during the refresh rate change and then settles nicely for the remainder of the movie. I don’t actually see any glitches because it seemingly happens during the black screen before the movie starts playing. Have you come across something similar?

@Evil GaMer

Your rendering stats should be comfortably below the frame time (40ms in your case). Yours exceed it by a fair bit which is likely causing your issues. Hardware limitation would be my guess.

I haven't tried the new HDR build. Given it is a work-in-progress by a rookie developer, it might have some bugs. Any bugs present in the alpha builds of Kodi v19 would have to be fixed by Team Kodi.

Dropped frames before playback occur because the video starts playing before the refresh rate change is completed. This is normal. Dropped frames after this point that later settle down are also normal, but I don't know what the cause might be.
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Quote:Much thanks to Warner306 for this excellent guide.  I'm setup with Kodi 18, MPC-BE, and madvr and overall everything is working well including HDR passthrough.

However, I keep having a small problem I'm hoping someone here can help with.  I'm using a GTX 1060 (6GB version) with the 385.28 Nvidia driver on Windows 10 1903.  No matter what I do, I cannot get RGB Full to stick in the Nvidia control panel.  For reference, the GTX 1060 is connected via HDMI to a Denon x3400h AVR, then to a Samsung KS8000 TV.  UHD color, color space settings, etc. are all set up correctly on all devices, with the intent of using RGB Full throughout the chain as suggested.  The HTPC is "always on" and I typically leave Kodi running all the time.

I've been through all the refresh rates, setting them up as suggested - i.e. 12-bit color for 30 Hz and below, 8-bit for everything else with RGB at full dynamic range.  When I set it, it will stay like that initially.  I can launch Kodi and it sticks, play a movie using MPC-BE as external player, no problems - so far so good.  It will even survive a reboot, no problem.  madvr reports the correct bit depth and all looks good.

However, if I switch off the AVR and TV (leaving the PC on and Kodi running) and come back later, say the next day, and turn everything back on again, it's immediately obvious the color settings have been changed to limited without anyone touching anything.  I can go back into the Nvidia control panel and re-select "Full" on dynamic range, click "Apply" and everything returns to normal.  Also another interesting anomaly is that if I start watching any HDR content, it triggers a switch back to "Full" with no need to go into the Nvidia control panel!  No matter how it gets switched back to RGB full, it will stay that way as long as I'm actively using it, but if I ever switch the system off and come back a few hours later, it reverts to limited again.

This is driving me nuts.  Any ideas from anyone on how to resolve this permanently?  What am I missing or doing wrong?
(2019-08-31, 01:55)Warner306 Wrote: It sounds like an oddity with the Nvidia video drivers.

I would either choose 8-bits for all refresh rates, which simplifies things and looks identical to 12-bits anyways. Or perhaps try using an EDID override, like described below, in the event this is related to an HDMI handshake issue when you turn on the AVR:

251833 (thread)

Thanks for the EDID override suggestion, hadn't really thought about it being a possible handshake issue.  I was really hoping that was it, but I finally got a minute to try it and unfortunately it didn't help, still getting the same behavior.  I reset all the refresh rates to 8-bits last night, so I'll check it out later and see if that fixes things.  Thanks again for the help and the guide.  I'll report back later.
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(2019-09-12, 16:25)ktide1 Wrote:
Quote:Much thanks to Warner306 for this excellent guide.  I'm setup with Kodi 18, MPC-BE, and madvr and overall everything is working well including HDR passthrough.

However, I keep having a small problem I'm hoping someone here can help with.  I'm using a GTX 1060 (6GB version) with the 385.28 Nvidia driver on Windows 10 1903.  No matter what I do, I cannot get RGB Full to stick in the Nvidia control panel.  For reference, the GTX 1060 is connected via HDMI to a Denon x3400h AVR, then to a Samsung KS8000 TV.  UHD color, color space settings, etc. are all set up correctly on all devices, with the intent of using RGB Full throughout the chain as suggested.  The HTPC is "always on" and I typically leave Kodi running all the time.

I've been through all the refresh rates, setting them up as suggested - i.e. 12-bit color for 30 Hz and below, 8-bit for everything else with RGB at full dynamic range.  When I set it, it will stay like that initially.  I can launch Kodi and it sticks, play a movie using MPC-BE as external player, no problems - so far so good.  It will even survive a reboot, no problem.  madvr reports the correct bit depth and all looks good.

However, if I switch off the AVR and TV (leaving the PC on and Kodi running) and come back later, say the next day, and turn everything back on again, it's immediately obvious the color settings have been changed to limited without anyone touching anything.  I can go back into the Nvidia control panel and re-select "Full" on dynamic range, click "Apply" and everything returns to normal.  Also another interesting anomaly is that if I start watching any HDR content, it triggers a switch back to "Full" with no need to go into the Nvidia control panel!  No matter how it gets switched back to RGB full, it will stay that way as long as I'm actively using it, but if I ever switch the system off and come back a few hours later, it reverts to limited again.

This is driving me nuts.  Any ideas from anyone on how to resolve this permanently?  What am I missing or doing wrong?
(2019-08-31, 01:55)Warner306 Wrote: It sounds like an oddity with the Nvidia video drivers.

I would either choose 8-bits for all refresh rates, which simplifies things and looks identical to 12-bits anyways. Or perhaps try using an EDID override, like described below, in the event this is related to an HDMI handshake issue when you turn on the AVR:

251833 (thread)

Thanks for the EDID override suggestion, hadn't really thought about it being a possible handshake issue.  I was really hoping that was it, but I finally got a minute to try it and unfortunately it didn't help, still getting the same behavior.  I reset all the refresh rates to 8-bits last night, so I'll check it out later and see if that fixes things.  Thanks again for the help and the guide.  I'll report back later. 
Still no luck.  Even set 8-bits across the board and EDID override in place, still (eventually) reverts to RGB limited after power off.  Anyone have any other suggestions/ideas?
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Change video drivers. That almost never happens to anyone else.
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(2019-09-13, 02:58)Warner306 Wrote: Change video drivers. That almost never happens to anyone else.

Yeah, that was going to be my next move barring any other advice/suggestions.  I've been hesitant to change because HDR passthrough and HDMI audio are working perfectly.  To this point, I've been using the old, reportedly reliable 385.28 driver for video.  Is there a particular driver version you suggest to try?  Based on this thread on Doom9 forum, I'm assuming 430.39 might be a good choice to try, or perhaps one of the drivers from 430.86 and up.  Any thoughts or advice?
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Any of the drivers that pass correct HDR metadata should work for straight HDR passthrough.
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Hi! 

I am wondering how to optimize my picture quality. 

I have a GTX 1080 TI and 5930K at 4,5 ghz. 

There are just to many settings, and it confuses me. 

Scaling alorithems? 
Lav video settings - Video Decoder, Hardware decoder to use? 
Do I have to choose the 1080 TI in order to use it? 
With default MadVR settings I would expect the fan to spin up as it with be in use but it doesnt. 

Asus GPU Tweak  crashes Kodi so I cant see how much in use the gpu is.
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(2019-09-13, 15:25)Warner306 Wrote: Any of the drivers that pass correct HDR metadata should work for straight HDR passthrough.

Thanks, I'll give one of them a spin when I get some time.  Thanks again for all of your help on this.

As a side note, I found this comment interesting in the Doom9 driver list:
Quote:430.64 2019-05-09 reverts the output dynamic range to Limited when TV is turned off/on need confirmation of other users

That's sounds exactly like what's happening to me but on driver version 385.28!
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(2019-09-12, 13:14)Warner306 Wrote:
(2019-09-11, 22:33)EviL GaMer Wrote:
(2019-09-11, 12:48)Warner306 Wrote: There could be several variables that might cause the present queue to empty. The most likely cause would be that rendering times are right at the edge of what the card can handle and are pushing it over the edge at certain points. Network latency in transfering large file rips could also be the cause, but the decoder queue would also be empty if that were the case.

For starters, post an OSD screenshot (Ctrl + J) when the present queue is empty and post it here with an image host such as postimage.

Also test your network transfer speeds with this test to ensure you are getting Gigabit speeds: LAN Speed Test.
Here's the link to the OSD.

I looked at it more and the decoder queue seems to get down a little bit as do subtitles, upload and render. Up to the point of the screenshot dropped frames were 0 and repeated frames were 6. They kept rising while the queue was empty obviously. The moment I started taking the screenshot it continued perfectly fine, as if nothing happened.  

Based on your screenshot, I'd guess your settings are too aggressive or you are running out of VRAM. Try lowering your settings to something that produces low rendering times. 

I changed to NGU Sharp (med) and it seems to work fine now. The rendering times at times still go up to 37ms but there were no frames dropped. I still find it weird that the moment I move the cursor the rendering times go down to ~17ms but now it's just a curiosity more than a hindrance.
Reply
(2019-09-13, 15:41)aleksanderdev Wrote: Hi! 

I am wondering how to optimize my picture quality. 

I have a GTX 1080 TI and 5930K at 4,5 ghz. 

There are just to many settings, and it confuses me. 

Scaling alorithems? 
Lav video settings - Video Decoder, Hardware decoder to use? 
Do I have to choose the 1080 TI in order to use it? 
With default MadVR settings I would expect the fan to spin up as it with be in use but it doesnt. 

Asus GPU Tweak  crashes Kodi so I cant see how much in use the gpu is.

Did you look at the suggested starter settings in the last section of the guide? Each section also has some recommendations for use in a paragraph or two at the end of the section.

If you browse to the first post, a “How to Configure LAV Filters” is linked there. Don’t choose your GPU under hardware acceleration in LAV Video. This should always be set to “Automatic (Native).”
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(2019-09-13, 02:58)Warner306 Wrote: Change video drivers. That almost never happens to anyone else.

Just wanted to report back one last time.  Changing drivers apparently has fixed my issue - yay!  Using 436.30 (latest), RGB full now sticks and survives AVR/TV power on/off.  HDR passthrough works fine, no HD audio issues (so far), so right now looks good!  Thanks again for all the help.
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Thanks for the great guide!  It has helped me get things going.  I currently am using the LAV Filters that are incorporated into Kodi DSPlayer.  I have current versions on my system however Kodi hasn't been configured to use them.  Is it recommended to use the current versions with Kodi DSPlayer?  If so what is the best path to follow in order to do so?
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Another question....

Has anyone experienced noise audible from speakers and your graphic card itself? From my research it is called "coil whine". I unfortunately have and it is frustrating to say the least. What is interesting is that it appears to only occur under certain conditions. The condition that is most likely to cause it is playing a video utilizing the features of MadVR. Adjusting settings within MadVR seems to effect the tone of the sound and its apparent volume. Additionally playing a video without using MadVR results in the noise going completely away. I have tried changing a variety of things including the card itself but the sound remains. I have gotten it to a level in which I can not hear the graphics card from my seated position away from the computer. It is still audible from my speakers if I turn my AVR's volume most of the way down. I cant hear it at listening volumes so I am trying to let it go however I would prefer it not be there. The current card I am using is a 2060 Super. My power supply is new and of a high quality. I cant return the card but have already exchanged it through an RMA process with the replacement being slightly worse than the original. Perhaps its as simple as that I chose the wrong brand.

Thanks
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It sounds like coil whine, but that wouldn't come from the speakers. Are you sure it isn't the power supply fan? That is often louder than the GPU fan. When the GPU starts to throttle down, does the sound remain? Coil whine should subside as fast as the GPU load is removed.
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HOW TO - Set up madVR for Kodi DSPlayer & External Players45