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Win Intel HTPCs/NUCs & Kodi-native 3D MVC Playback
(2017-08-04, 16:38)brazen1 Wrote: I can understand noise could be frustrating if you haven't set up speedfan and a couple power option values in windows. Todays GPU's are silent, at least those with more than one fan. Maybe they load up under gaming and spin hard? Movie playback I've never even seen them spin. My CPU is set at 1100 rpm. I can't hear it. It's a pretty old system too, about 10 years. I imagine newer stuff would be even less straining but not sure what you would have to work with?

I don't know what you mean about everything being blurry in 3D and had to be switched every time you played something? Either 3D is on for 3D titles or it's off. Quitting MPC to return to Kodi when finished shouldn't be an issue? There's a setting 'Close player when finished' that closes the player when finished, returning to Kodi in focus enabling a very pleasant seamless integration.

True, the difference between W7 and W10 compatibly is night and day. Clearly, most newer formats won't even work on W7 or any other platform unless it's W10 or W8 at the very least.

There's no reason to buy "another" motherboards, CPU's, and GPU's blowing your $150 budget (how much are you invested so far in multiple streaming boxes?) Use those existing ones. As I said you can 'update' your GPU if you desire to reach full potential. I think a brand new Nvidia 1030, you could pop in your old PC, will set you back under $100.

Anyway, you asked about fully functioning alternatives but it seems you lean toward streaming boxes and frown on PC HTPC's based on W7 era bad experiences you didn't fine tune remedy. Good luck in your quest.

I'm sure that you're right in terms of improving on my experience with some tweaking. The thing is, my streaming box is using a soldered in processor and lacks a pci-e slot, so I very much would have to buy a new processor, board and card. Can't see doing that for $150, although if you think I'm wrong let me know!

In terms of the other issues, I'm just going off my prior experience. I was referring to the Windows level display settings (you have 1080, or 1080 3D) and for some reason on my old win 7 Nvidia system, that would cause text and the entire kodi interface to get somewhat blurry, unless I manually set it to 1080. No idea why, sounds like that's no longer an issue.

I was aware of the close player when finished" flag. I think the issue I was having was that I don't usually watch a movie file to the end of the credits, and so pressing stop as i usually would didn't then transition back to the kodi interface, and I had to quit and switch manually. Sometimes it worked, sometimes it didn't, but it wasn't seemless. Perhaps that's resolvable now.

Either way, unless I can buy a suitable card, motherboard and CPU for $150 or so, I don't think this is the solution I'm looking for. Appreciate your help anyway though.
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(2017-08-04, 07:16)filmgeek47 Wrote: I did experiment with that early on in the process of setting things up, but I ran into a few issues. One of the bigger ones was noise levels with the PC + GPU.

You referred to running into issues with your early on PC and GPU. Based on that I figured you could easily adapt what you had for under $100. As you stated, you're not going to adapt anything with a streaming box though.
HOW TO - Kodi 2D - 3D - UHD (4k) HDR Guide Internal & External Players iso menus
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To whomever keeps the spreadsheet up to date, I've got some testing info that should probably be on there.

The J4205 board does not, and likely will never support 3D playback through the 4k HDMI port. It also does not currently play back 3d properly from the dvi port either, although it's unclear to me whether any devices are working with any of the current builds.

My experience has been that both the J4205, and the Gigabyte J1900 stutter with the last few builds (anything since december). I've also verified that the J4205 loses audio sync frequently when playing back 3D on previous builds that do not stutter.

I believe that those who tested it and had good results were not using "hardware based" 3D with active glasses, but rather were using interlaced 3D, which does work fine.

I've tried updating the internal Displayport chip, using every available bios (including beta bioses). I'd love it if others could be warned that this is not a working solution at this time, EXCEPT for those using interlaced 3D setups.

I'd also still love to hear from anyone who IS able to watch hardware based 3D with bitstreamed HD audio on the latest build without stuttering, and if so what hardware they're on, as at this point I've tried two different systems without success.
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@filmgeek47, correct on the HDMI 2.0 for 3D seems updates have dried up from MegaChips. The only way it works if you want the HDMI 2.0 is to use Interlaced setting in Kodi as I previously posted.

on the J4205, if you plug into DVI and set resolution to 1080p you can then get Hardware MVC ( the switches TV to 3D), I sent an example to your private message box (Partysaurus Rex TrueHD 7.1, hardware 3D at 1080P)

The J1900 was definitely not in Interlaced mode as it would show the video as 540p, it was in hardware 3D passive at 1080P.

I have also tried the latest build on a Beelink AP34 (Apollo Lake N3450) with bitstream and hardware 3D, set resolution to 1080P, tried a few films so far the only sync issue was with Bolt. Just tried Star Trek Beyond and plays smooth, not watch the whole film yet.

I am using the latest Intel driver win64_154602.4729.exe from their site.
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@filmgeek.
I have an asrock j3455b board running here. The b version doesn't have the dreaded converter chip. Only hdmi1.4 directly on the gpu, so comparable to J4205 hdmi via dvi.

I'm not using 4k or hdr. But everything else, incl ATMOS/DTSX pass-through and fullhd mvc 3d playback, also in combination, run without issues.

PQ is very good, also in 3d. And totally passively cooled.

On some 3d movies I had indeed serious sync issues. I 'solved' this by NOT setting display refresh rate to match fps. Then it is always perfectly in sync.

This does result in some stuttering. But as I enable frame interpolation (motion compensation) on the projector for 3d anyway, this is almost not visible at all and runs smooth.

Sent from my HTC One_M8
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Appreciate the responses guys.

Just to be clear, I don't care about 4k/hdr. just looking for 1080 3D MVC for my active projector, and bitstreamed HD audio.

I've been using the dvi output on the J4205. In a bout of frustration I tried troubleshooting the HDMI connection again in the vain hope that some combination of drivers and firmware updating would somehow improve things, but that was obviously a dead end.

Using the DVI connection, I'm getting pretty consistent stutter in 3D MVC playback. I've tried several intel drivers (both the set on the asrock site, and the 4729 from intel that you reference. 2D playback is perfect.

Is there some setting or configuration difference I could be missing that's causing this? The stuttering is quite consistent on the new build, regardless of what audio codec is used (I was actually observing it today even when switching off passthrough).

I also observed the stuttering on the J1900 with the new build, so I went ahead and returned it.

I know my projector and receiver aren't the problem, because I don't have any issues when playing via my blu-ray player. Just hoping to ditch the disks! I also know that my board isn't defective, because I just had to RMA it and got a new replacement from asrock.

What's weird to me is the change in behavior between builds. The December build is almost perfect. Haven't seen any stuttering, but the audio isn't always in sync, and you can't rewind or fast forward on that build, so if it goes out there's no way to re-sync it.

Just to be totally clear, you're saying that you DON'T get stuttering when your 3D setting is "Hardware based," correct? If I switch mine to interlaced, I no longer get stuttering, but as I have an active 3D projector that obviously doesn't do anything for me.

Not sure what else to try at this point, but there must be some difference between our setups that accounts for the difference.

Might try and save up for a beeline at some point.

@dexter appreciate the reply as well. That's interesting to note about the b variant. Wish I had one! I'd consider buying it, but unfortunately I can't stand the motion interpolation on my projector, so I really am looking for a box that provides smooth playback regardless of the projector settings.

EDIT:

Two other potential factors. Rewster, are you using an activated version of windows? Any idea of that should matter? Cause I'm not. Also, would Realtek audio drivers make a difference? If so, what version, if any are you using? I installed the latest available from the Realtek website.
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@filmgeek47, my windows in fully activated, I think in unactivated state you may only get security updates but I have not tested. I have not installed the Realtek drivers on my J4205.

I have also sent a PM regarding setting the projector HDMI input to PC, I will share it here, as I did get an issue when my LG TV HDMI input was set to Bluray mode, in PC mode certain features that can cause issues are turned off in the settings. This caused a juddering picture like the picture was show in 2 separate positions.
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@hdmkv, could you add the Beelink AP34 N3450 Apollo Lake PC to the spreadsheet.

I can confirm that with the resolution set to 1080p and using the latest driver from Intel (15.46.02.4729) it works with HD passthrough and hardware 3D. Had minor sync issue that was solved with quick dab of rewind key, this was most evident with Bolt 3D.

The computer is FANLESS which is great, it has Intel HD Graphics 500 and has 4GB RAM, 64GB SSD included. I managed to get one for £123 (£159 currently) from Amazon.co.uk on flash sale, Beelink AP34 Link. This is the new stock as it has Beelink's new logo on it not the old script text.
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@rewsteruk, added Beelink AP34 N3450 to spreadsheet; thanks.

Have been away for a while... any word on a Kodi 17.3-based build @afedchin? Thanks.
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@hdmkv, thanks for adding it. Yes, 17.3 would be nice to see.
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(2017-08-05, 18:32)brazen1 Wrote:
(2017-08-04, 07:16)filmgeek47 Wrote: I did experiment with that early on in the process of setting things up, but I ran into a few issues. One of the bigger ones was noise levels with the PC + GPU.

You referred to running into issues with your early on PC and GPU. Based on that I figured you could easily adapt what you had for under $100. As you stated, you're not going to adapt anything with a streaming box though.

Brazen1, thank you! Funnily enough, I DID find a way to adapt my steaming box. Bought a Gt 710 with a pcie 1 connector, and using one of your other guides I was able to get 3D working through the Nvidia card and an external player.

Only issues are: I have is right now my 2D files are also playing through mpc-hc, even though I have a separate entry in my playercorefactory for files with *3D* to use it only.
-card takes about 6 seconds to switch properly into 3D mode, during which it flickers around a bit. Plays great once it's had a few seconds to figure itself out (guessing I'm just stuck with that, but I'll take it).

I know it's not really on topic for the thread, but for anyone interested, for around $200 it's possible to buy a J4205 or equivalent integrated board, gt 710 pcie x1 and a case with build in psu if you're willing to use an external player. Only tested it out for an hour or so yesterday, but it seems to be much more reliable at present than the 3D fork, at least compared to the setups I've been able to try.

Thanks to everyone who's taken the time to troubleshoot all of this with me!
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@filmgeek47. If you probably tried an external player (mpc-hc/LAV/MADVR or PowerDVD) before buying the external graphics card that probably would have worked with your projector as you said the December builds were ok, so your computer and graphics was not the issue.

Your media player will probably using approx 45 watts of power with the addition of the card and most streaming boxes are about 10 watts, my J4205 NAS/Media player is 19 Watts, the AP34 in the previous post is about 7 watts.

I have the GT730 fanless in my main PC and that adds around 25-30 watts, I believe the GT710 is about 20-25 watts.

I would try Kodi external player route without the external card and see it that produces the result you are after.
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@hdmkv: You have a PM. Please read it. Thanks.
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I have a Tronsmart ARA X5 Plus. I have updated to the latest Windows 10 Pro build (15063.540) and latest drivers with Driver Booster. No luck with 3D using the 21.3.2015 Windows MVC. Works otherwise fine, but no picture, sound only.

I managed to get Kodi 3D working with Intel driver 20.19.25.4331 which happens to be the recommended driver by Windows Update. However, I cannot find the driver package anywhere else. Link to this very package is in a post in this thread, but it does not install to my Tronsmart.

There are also serious problems with PCM decoded audio with this driver package, Kodi WASAPI work fine, though. Windows resets the HDMI channel configuration to stereo when any 3D SW is started. It is almost impossible to get proper audio with Cyberlink PowerDVD. And Kodi does not play all 3D discs properly.

Before the Windows 1703 update audio worked better.

Looks difficult.
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I have the same problem, I can't choose Hardware based either, there's no such option (I'm using Nvidia 960xt). Funny thing is when I turn MVC movie, the TV signaling as 3D but the picture itself is still 2D, so not sure what's the problem is.


(2017-07-14, 00:16)Kilonga Wrote:
(2017-07-13, 14:32)movie78 Wrote:
(2017-07-13, 03:19)Kilonga Wrote: Hi,

I have the Beebox-S 7200U and using KODI 21-March-2017 build with MVC. Latest drivers installed using Intel' Driver Update Utility. I followed all the instructions but in KODI I cannot select "hardware based" 3D as the preferred mode.
I see other people have had the same problem but cannot find the solution. I also see other members with the exact same setup I have but no complaints!

Any ideas how to solve this problem?

Thanks!

Are you using the HDMI 1.4 port?

Yes I am using HDMI 1.4 (the port on top of the displayport). Could it be that it's not "detecting" the TV as being 3D capable? I don't understand why I don't get the hardware based 3D option to choose from.
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