[GUIDE] Build a headless kodi music system for £150
#16
How are the speakers powered, or are they active speakers?
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#17
This looks so cool, and very easy to implement! Now thinking of using something like this!
Server: Windows Server 2016 Standard Hyper-V with Ubuntu Server VM, NFS shares and MySQL
Kodi: 2 Raspberry Pi 3 running Libreelec
My Setup thread | Setup Ubuntu / TVH / Schedules Direct
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#18
(2018-09-14, 01:02)HeresJohnny Wrote: How are the speakers powered, or are they active speakers?
 They are passive, which is pretty much the advantage of using the Justboom amp. Beauty is the whole system only needs 1 power socket.
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#19
(2018-09-13, 09:46)docwra Wrote: Hmm no issues here, using google chrome.

Could a mod move this into the tips and tricks forum please?
 No worries Doc, it's working now. One word: Bitdefender. Was also preventing me from streaming from my HDHomeRun device properly due to it's draconian lockdown methods. God forbid you try to run Windows Blinds with it, as that's also an excercise in frustration. Uninstalled. lol.

Wink

Nice guide. Thanks for sharing.

Dan / Gib.
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DT: Intel Core-i7 - 4770K / Nvidia GTX-980 Ti | HTPC: Intel Core-i5 - 4670K / Nvidia GTX-950
TV: Sony KDL-40EX524 | AVR: Onkyo TX-NR515 | SPK: 2x Pioneer CS-7070 / 3x Tannoy F1 Custom
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#20
One thing I've noticed with my TP-Link Powerline Adapters (4x TL-PA9020P - V1) is that periodically, the centre light (Connection quality) will go red and all connectivity will cease. In my case I live in a flat with "Economy 7" electric, which switches to cheap rate at midnight, and back to normal rate at 6am. The connection between my desktop (& 1st NAS) and the HTPC has reached the heady heights of 900-1,000Mbps before now, but the link to the bedroom is only about 600mbps max. Wall adapters, phone chargers or anything AC->DC seems to have a negative effect on performance across the entire ring main, and switching between cheap-rate and normal-rate electric occasionally causes TP-Link's Powerline adapters to flip out. Simply turning off the switch on the RCD for "Sockets" for 10 seconds, and flipping it back on again cures the problem.

Since both my NAS devices have UPS backup, and it's easier to access the RCD, than the wall socket on/off switches, this isn't a major issue for me, but something that buyers may want to factor in. Also, on my devices, it's not possible to disable the QoS feature on the adapters. So i set mine to "Audio / Video" and this seems to have the least amount of negative impact on the network as a whole. As Docwra says, it's certainly a better alternative to WiFi, and the speed fluctuates a lot less on Powerline than it does on WiFi, certainly. The total performance, is however, largely dependant on the quality (and the age) of your internal wiring, so YMMV.
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DT: Intel Core-i7 - 4770K / Nvidia GTX-980 Ti | HTPC: Intel Core-i5 - 4670K / Nvidia GTX-950
TV: Sony KDL-40EX524 | AVR: Onkyo TX-NR515 | SPK: 2x Pioneer CS-7070 / 3x Tannoy F1 Custom
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#21
Touch wood, since I got the new AV2000 model Power line network adapters they have worked pretty good and been stable for 4 months now.

I've wired the rest of my house to 10gbit now with Cat6 Cables but the raspberry pi is just a bit too far away for that.

Happy with the adapter solution for now as long as it proves stable. Speed is pretty awful, but i'm guessing thats a limitation of the raspberry pi network socket.
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[GUIDE] Build a headless kodi music system for £15051