[brazen1]

Those are settings for nVidia and how I prefer to setup.  Ha!  Just noticed his/her sig is a wee bit similar to mine.  I do things differently but perhaps he/she needs or thinks this is best for his/her environment.

[bsoriano]

Either you have a typo or some wrong settings.  358.28 is never going to work, however, 385.28 works best.  Every driver after 385.28 introduced audio problems and many others of one sort or another.  That's why I use it to this day problem free.  That's why I asked.  May improve your problems or at least ensure you are starting off on the right foot to diagnosing them.

 @brazen1 ,

Are you using 385.28 with Kodi Leia also?  What version of Windows 10 do you have now in your primary HTPC? Thanks for your help.

Regards,

Bart

[zxaura1]

Those are settings for nVidia and how I prefer to setup.  Ha!  Just noticed his/her sig is a wee bit similar to mine.  I do things differently but perhaps he/she needs or thinks this is best for his/her environment.

 I am 'he"... :-) My name is Alex and I am so pleased to meet you!
Sorry for stealing your format of signature, but I wanted you to see my setup in case of replying or asking about it.
I know your directions are for Full RGB 60Hz desktop setup, but first there is no reason for me, because this is a HTPC only PC and I don't want it to change resolutions every time I start and stop a movie as all my movies and series are in 23.976Hz. Second, my setup PC->Pioneer->LG TV is struggling when changing resolutions. It takes more than 7, 8 or maybe 10 seconds to change format (HDR<->SDR or 2D<->3D) or refresh rates.

[luci5r]

Those are settings for nVidia and how I prefer to setup.  Ha!  Just noticed his/her sig is a wee bit similar to mine.  I do things differently but perhaps he/she needs or thinks this is best for his/her environment.

 I am 'he"... :-) My name is Alex and I am so pleased to meet you!
Sorry for stealing your format of signature, but I wanted you to see my setup in case of replying or asking about it.
I know your directions are for Full RGB 60Hz desktop setup, but first there is no reason for me, because this is a HTPC only PC and I don't want it to change resolutions every time I start and stop a movie as all my movies and series are in 23.976Hz. Second, my setup PC->Pioneer->LG TV is struggling when changing resolutions. It takes more than 7, 8 or maybe 10 seconds to change format (HDR<->SDR or 2D<->3D) or refresh rates. 

@brazen1 :I'm still not clear on what "RGB 4:4:4" means. "YCbCr 4:2:2" is a little more apparent to me as that is the name of a setting I can select under "Output Color Format" in the Nvidia Control Panel. But I don't see one called "RGB 4:4:4". I do see an "RGB". 

These are my current settings. Do these sound about right or do I have something wrong here?



@zxaura1 :
I too have an HTPC only PC - Is there a reason you have selected "YCbCr 4:2:2" over "RGB"?

Thanks!

[zxaura1]

Those are settings for nVidia and how I prefer to setup.  Ha!  Just noticed his/her sig is a wee bit similar to mine.  I do things differently but perhaps he/she needs or thinks this is best for his/her environment.

 I am 'he"... :-) My name is Alex and I am so pleased to meet you!
Sorry for stealing your format of signature, but I wanted you to see my setup in case of replying or asking about it.
I know your directions are for Full RGB 60Hz desktop setup, but first there is no reason for me, because this is a HTPC only PC and I don't want it to change resolutions every time I start and stop a movie as all my movies and series are in 23.976Hz. Second, my setup PC->Pioneer->LG TV is struggling when changing resolutions. It takes more than 7, 8 or maybe 10 seconds to change format (HDR<->SDR or 2D<->3D) or refresh rates.  

@brazen1 :I'm still not clear on what "RGB 4:4:4" means. "YCbCr 4:2:2" is a little more apparent to me as that is the name of a setting I can select under "Output Color Format" in the Nvidia Control Panel. But I don't see one called "RGB 4:4:4". I do see an "RGB". 

These are my current settings. Do these sound about right or do I have something wrong here?



@zxaura1 :
I too have an HTPC only PC - Is there a reason you have selected "YCbCr 4:2:2" over "RGB"?

Thanks! 

No, not a particular reason. Maybe just because I wanted 10bit (because most of my movies are in HDR) and only in YCbCr 4.2.2 I found it. But there is a reason for "limited' output dynamic range and this is because in the receiver was connected an Nvidia Shield TV in which I didn't found a way to switch to RGB Full mode. Also there is an Xbox One S in which RGB Full doesn't work in my setup. So it is impossible for me to go to TV settings every time and change the mode from low to high (full to limited), depending on the source my receiver outputs.
Also in my eyes, I didn't notice any difference in PQ between RGB Full and YCbCr limited...

[brazen1]

Either you have a typo or some wrong settings.  358.28 is never going to work, however, 385.28 works best.  Every driver after 385.28 introduced audio problems and many others of one sort or another.  That's why I use it to this day problem free.  That's why I asked.  May improve your problems or at least ensure you are starting off on the right foot to diagnosing them.

 @brazen1 ,

Are you using 385.28 with Kodi Leia also?  What version of Windows 10 do you have now in your primary HTPC? Thanks for your help.

Regards,

Bart 

 Yes, 385.28.  Never tried a newer driver with v.18 but suppose I should.  Will introduce problems outside of KODI though so...  W10 v.1803 as in my sig.

[brazen1]

Those are settings for nVidia and how I prefer to setup.  Ha!  Just noticed his/her sig is a wee bit similar to mine.  I do things differently but perhaps he/she needs or thinks this is best for his/her environment.

 I am 'he"... :-) My name is Alex and I am so pleased to meet you!
Sorry for stealing your format of signature, but I wanted you to see my setup in case of replying or asking about it.
I know your directions are for Full RGB 60Hz desktop setup, but first there is no reason for me, because this is a HTPC only PC and I don't want it to change resolutions every time I start and stop a movie as all my movies and series are in 23.976Hz. Second, my setup PC->Pioneer->LG TV is struggling when changing resolutions. It takes more than 7, 8 or maybe 10 seconds to change format (HDR<->SDR or 2D<->3D) or refresh rates. 

 Howdy "he" err, Alex.  Nothing wrong with what you're doing especially if your OLED is struggling and you're not using HTPC as all in one.  You will introduce lag in KODI GUI though but if it doesn't bother you...

[zxaura1]

Those are settings for nVidia and how I prefer to setup.  Ha!  Just noticed his/her sig is a wee bit similar to mine.  I do things differently but perhaps he/she needs or thinks this is best for his/her environment.

 I am 'he"... :-) My name is Alex and I am so pleased to meet you!
Sorry for stealing your format of signature, but I wanted you to see my setup in case of replying or asking about it.
I know your directions are for Full RGB 60Hz desktop setup, but first there is no reason for me, because this is a HTPC only PC and I don't want it to change resolutions every time I start and stop a movie as all my movies and series are in 23.976Hz. Second, my setup PC->Pioneer->LG TV is struggling when changing resolutions. It takes more than 7, 8 or maybe 10 seconds to change format (HDR<->SDR or 2D<->3D) or refresh rates. 

 Howdy "he" err, Alex.  Nothing wrong with what you're doing especially if your OLED is struggling and you're not using HTPC as all in one.  You will introduce lag in KODI GUI though but if it doesn't bother you...

Now with the new card (1050ti) and the latest drivers things are much much better. Don’t know if it is the combination or one of them. I really didn’t noticed any difference in lag or anything else between 60Hz and 23Hz in KODI GUI. But maybe that’s my eyes or the TV.

[brazen1]

Those are settings for nVidia and how I prefer to setup.  Ha!  Just noticed his/her sig is a wee bit similar to mine.  I do things differently but perhaps he/she needs or thinks this is best for his/her environment.

 I am 'he"... :-) My name is Alex and I am so pleased to meet you!
Sorry for stealing your format of signature, but I wanted you to see my setup in case of replying or asking about it.
I know your directions are for Full RGB 60Hz desktop setup, but first there is no reason for me, because this is a HTPC only PC and I don't want it to change resolutions every time I start and stop a movie as all my movies and series are in 23.976Hz. Second, my setup PC->Pioneer->LG TV is struggling when changing resolutions. It takes more than 7, 8 or maybe 10 seconds to change format (HDR<->SDR or 2D<->3D) or refresh rates.  

@brazen1 :I'm still not clear on what "RGB 4:4:4" means. "YCbCr 4:2:2" is a little more apparent to me as that is the name of a setting I can select under "Output Color Format" in the Nvidia Control Panel. But I don't see one called "RGB 4:4:4". I do see an "RGB". 

These are my current settings. Do these sound about right or do I have something wrong here?



@zxaura1 :
I too have an HTPC only PC - Is there a reason you have selected "YCbCr 4:2:2" over "RGB"?

Thanks! 

 You don't see it because 4:4:4 is "Full" vs 4:2:2 which is "Limited aka 0-255 vs 16-235.  All devices output a dynamic range.  Some you can choose the range, some you can't.  All my hardware offers a choice so I set everything to 4:4:4.  For those you can't and you are limited to only what is offered, a combination is used to achieve the final range.  Even software offers the choice including KODI.  Your settings are fine assuming the rest of your hardware and software are harmonious with those GPU settings.  A quick way to know is if your black bars are BLACK and not grey.  And I mean BLACK.  If they are grey, something in your chain is off or you need to calibrate.

[brazen1]

 I am 'he"... :-) My name is Alex and I am so pleased to meet you!
Sorry for stealing your format of signature, but I wanted you to see my setup in case of replying or asking about it.
I know your directions are for Full RGB 60Hz desktop setup, but first there is no reason for me, because this is a HTPC only PC and I don't want it to change resolutions every time I start and stop a movie as all my movies and series are in 23.976Hz. Second, my setup PC->Pioneer->LG TV is struggling when changing resolutions. It takes more than 7, 8 or maybe 10 seconds to change format (HDR<->SDR or 2D<->3D) or refresh rates. 

 Howdy "he" err, Alex.  Nothing wrong with what you're doing especially if your OLED is struggling and you're not using HTPC as all in one.  You will introduce lag in KODI GUI though but if it doesn't bother you... 

Now with the new card (1050ti) and the latest drivers things are much much better. Don’t know if it is the combination or one of them. I really didn’t noticed any difference in lag or anything else between 60Hz and 23Hz in KODI GUI. But maybe that’s my eyes or the TV. 

 Lag.  Sluggish GUI when navigating like from title to title you will notice it's just not snappy.  GUI prefers 60Hz but doesn't mean it won't work.

[zxaura1]

 Howdy "he" err, Alex.  Nothing wrong with what you're doing especially if your OLED is struggling and you're not using HTPC as all in one.  You will introduce lag in KODI GUI though but if it doesn't bother you... 

Now with the new card (1050ti) and the latest drivers things are much much better. Don’t know if it is the combination or one of them. I really didn’t noticed any difference in lag or anything else between 60Hz and 23Hz in KODI GUI. But maybe that’s my eyes or the TV. 

 Lag.  Sluggish GUI when navigating like from title to title you will notice it's just not snappy.  GUI prefers 60Hz but doesn't mean it won't work.

Yes, I understood.
Sorry for the quality but I took a small video using GUI in my 23Hz setup:

https://youtu.be/-q1YZ9m9htc

I don’t know if you can understand from this video, but I don’t feel any lag or I got used to it...

[brazen1]

Please confirm or deny my findings.  It should only take a couple minutes.  It will not harm your install.
You need a 4k display using nVidia with KODI v.18 nightly - nothing else.  I've tried a few nightlies including the latest 8-22.  Makes no difference.
I don't care which nVidia driver you are using.  I tried 385.28 and am currently trying the newest 398.82.  Makes no difference.  I have not customized the driver at all and left it at default install settings.

Your desktop resolution should be at 2160p and KODI auto matches by also being set at 2160p.

Open KODI v.18.  x86 or x64 makes no difference.  Hopefully you have v.18 installed already.  I don't care if you use windowed, fullscreen, or any other settings in KODI.  I tried combos of them all and it makes no difference.  You may need to press "\" or window KODI any way you see fit so you can access the desktop in order to open nVidia Control Panel.  There are many ways to access while KODI is open and makes no difference.

Open nVidia Control Panel.

Change the resolution from 2160p to 1080p.  Just 1080p is fine and 1080p3D is not necessary but results in the same bug.

Your display will flash as it changes resolution.  You will probably need to accept the change in NCP.

Now close or minimize NCP so you can see KODI or bring it in focus.

On my system KODI is wasted without touching it.  This is just how it ends up after the resolution change occurs.  It does not respond and I'm usually met with Windows pop-up to close or wait for it to respond followed by another pop-up to send error report.  Depending on the various settings possible, you could end up with a tiny KODI inside another Window or a few artifacts in a white or black screen and nothing else.  I've seen em' all.  Doesn't matter.  KODI is wasted and does not respond to anything.  You may need to change resolution back to 2160p before it occurs but I didn't.

Is this true or similar for you?

The 3D problem I posted earlier is related to this since 3D requires a resolution change from 2160p to 1080p.  There were no testers because they didn't have 3D displays.  So, this simulates the same situation without needing 3D capability.  It also eliminates the PCF.xml as a possible cause since it's not even used in this test.  It also eliminates any possible movie files such as 3D or iso's being problematic since no file needs to be played.  This is as I stated when I presented the problem originally.  KODI v.18 crashes on resolution change and this test is pretty simple, fast, and accurate.

Please help me out so I know if this is due to my system or it is a wide spread bug.  Again, after trying, KODI will return to normal next start once you set 2160p back in NCP.

[twinpeaks]

On a whim, I just tried 398.82 from 08/01. It has completely transformed by 1050ti Kaby Lake system in ways I didn't suspect.

The driver I had settled on before [which I am not exactly sure but I have recorded in OneNote which is on my laptop downstairs - it was a 385.xx] performed well but had 2 issues

1 - I had a lot of display / resolution / timing flashes when first starting a video either tv or movie. TV was a couple, Movie could be up to 6. In fact I had a delay built into playercorefactory to account for this.

2 - Very slow bootup. I had no idea this had anything to do with my display driver - in fact, I attributed it to my low power Kaby Lake. But on 398.82 this thing boots up 2x faster. If I had known I'd have taken some formal timings.

3 - Slow movie start. This is in part to do with the delay referenced in 2 but this driver gets things moving so much more quickly.

These improvements are in addition to the other basic necessities for this driver:

1 - Proper 3D mode with proper enable and disable upon exit of 3D movie (and, of course, successful completion of Nvidia 3D setup wizard - which knocks quite a few drivers down the toilet.)
2 - Proper disable of HDR upon exit of 4K HDR movie

There are 2 issues with this driver for me

1 - the type within the control panel is puny. I'm typing this message in Edge and it's fine but to use the control panel I need to stand up and practically get breath condensation on the tv or lower the resolution to see the control panel. This falls firmly in the 'so what' category.
2 - the old dreaded pest that shows up from time to time has reared its head again. That is, upon exit, even though 3D goes off, HDR goes off, Kodi remains minimized. To quote Mutant Enemy, "GRR ARGH!" Is there anything to do programmatically or any way to fix this short of reverting back to my former driver? With this being my only problem, I may finally try 18 or just build an alt-tab into my Logitech exit macro.

[Mount81]

Hmm... The following makes me wonder regarding the seriousness and the competence of this guide... "Suggestions for Samsung users": turn on Motion Plus. Yea, if you want constant and random generated micro stutters (hick ups) in the motion. I have H6400 and even with the sliders on 30% it will produce these (and even some micro artifacts sometimes). Not to mention the also not-so desirable soap-opera effect and in general it definitely alters artificially the "native" PQ and motion display of the video... Motion plus is better on tuned entirely OFF, or just Set to Custom and both sliders to Zero. Some -few- are lucky with higher settings to, but I wouldn't make such a suggestions if there's so high probability of PQ and motion display errors (and beside when the user won't even know why these appear).

[zxaura1]

Please confirm or deny my findings.  It should only take a couple minutes.  It will not harm your install.
You need a 4k display using nVidia with KODI v.18 nightly - nothing else.  I've tried a few nightlies including the latest 8-22.  Makes no difference.
I don't care which nVidia driver you are using.  I tried 385.28 and am currently trying the newest 398.82.  Makes no difference.  I have not customized the driver at all and left it at default install settings.

Your desktop resolution should be at 2160p and KODI auto matches by also being set at 2160p.

Open KODI v.18.  x86 or x64 makes no difference.  Hopefully you have v.18 installed already.  I don't care if you use windowed, fullscreen, or any other settings in KODI.  I tried combos of them all and it makes no difference.  You may need to press "\" or window KODI any way you see fit so you can access the desktop in order to open nVidia Control Panel.  There are many ways to access while KODI is open and makes no difference.

Open nVidia Control Panel.

Change the resolution from 2160p to 1080p.  Just 1080p is fine and 1080p3D is not necessary but results in the same bug.

Your display will flash as it changes resolution.  You will probably need to accept the change in NCP.

Now close or minimize NCP so you can see KODI or bring it in focus.

On my system KODI is wasted without touching it.  This is just how it ends up after the resolution change occurs.  It does not respond and I'm usually met with Windows pop-up to close or wait for it to respond followed by another pop-up to send error report.  Depending on the various settings possible, you could end up with a tiny KODI inside another Window or a few artifacts in a white or black screen and nothing else.  I've seen em' all.  Doesn't matter.  KODI is wasted and does not respond to anything.  You may need to change resolution back to 2160p before it occurs but I didn't.

Is this true or similar for you?

The 3D problem I posted earlier is related to this since 3D requires a resolution change from 2160p to 1080p.  There were no testers because they didn't have 3D displays.  So, this simulates the same situation without needing 3D capability.  It also eliminates the PCF.xml as a possible cause since it's not even used in this test.  It also eliminates any possible movie files such as 3D or iso's being problematic since no file needs to be played.  This is as I stated when I presented the problem originally.  KODI v.18 crashes on resolution change and this test is pretty simple, fast, and accurate.

Please help me out so I know if this is due to my system or it is a wide spread bug.  Again, after trying, KODI will return to normal next start once you set 2160p back in NCP.

Hi @brazen1 I installed Leia latest nightly over 17.6 and I did your test. I set KODI windowed, opened NCP and changed the resolution to 1080p. Then went back to KODI and everything was factioned well.
The strange thing was that the KODI window always insisted to stay on top of NCP window. Every few seconds it was stealing the focus of the other window.
But remember the test made with my settings (YCbCr 10bits 23Hz).
After all these, things got messed up a lot and I am now formatting and starting over. So I can not do any more tests at the moment.
Hope I helped...