Coming from a 1080p setup to a 2160p is going to require some additional settings and modifications.
(1) Imo, best results are going to come from an HTPC device with a decent graphics processing unit for a number of reasons in your situation. While shelf devices dominate streaming and ease of use, they don't offer high end custom tailoring of audio/video processing, future proofing upgrades/repairs, and often limit GPU's due to heat issues inherent of small enclosures. A Shield for example, will not produce the same 1080p upscale to 2160p quality a good GPU in an HTPC will.
(2) HDR is standard for all UHD titles now. It isn't something you add but it is something you need to process and requires the hardware and/or software to do so either by passing through its metadata (which in turn signals software/hardware how to automatically adjust to accept the HDR) or to convert the HDR to SDR which is more primitive and produces lesser results since software/hardware do not react to metadata because it has not been passed through, rather converted. Many do not have HDR capabilities so prefer the latter especially using HDR sources. This HDR to SDR conversion can then be manipulated using madVR tone mapping to create similar results. This is new and under development. Furthermore, some with HDR hardware capabilities prefer madVR do the HDR to SDR tone mapping because it does a better job for them considering their opinion which probably stems from poor or mediocre hardware to begin with. The 'Envy' (madVR hardware) will release at some point. This is another option that can take the place of madVR software if one chooses. It will eliminate the need for a device to run the software - the HTPC itself provided you can justify the cost. Considering these choices, it's my opinion you passthrough your HDR metadata as designed and use madVR with your 1080 ti to auto trigger because your equipment is not substandard.
(2b) I see no reason to add extra SVP processing to alter the native frame rate up to 60 anymore assuming your Samsung is at least 120Hz native. This would only be applicable for panels or PJ's that were not 120Hz or higher capable. For 60Hz limited PJ's and panels, playing 23.976 aka 24 (the frame rate movies are filmed and processed at) 60 is not perfectly divisible by 24 and 3:2 pulldown is used to compensate for the improper cadence which introduces judder. For instance, my panel is 120Hz native which is perfectly divisible by 24 and even offers 240Hz interpolated. I've no need to use software for what the panel already does and does better. Neither should you. The Soap Opera Effect is absolutely phenomenal and welcomed both for the motion and clarity it unbridles.
(2c) Which guide to use is your decision. Most produce similar conclusions when followed and applied properly. My guide appeals to those who wish to use external player(s) of their choice as well as the official KODI internal player in order to cover the entire gamut of every format offered except paid subscription streaming sources which could be done but I've never had any interest. The more popular choice is the unofficial forked version of DSPlayer which is now stagnant using the KODI 17.6 build and appears will never be updated again. I am presently using KODI v.19 official nightlies. Whether using an older stagnant build vs state-of-the-art may or may not matter depending on the user. Imo, these are the two most relevant and popular KODI front ends. There are other popular front ends but they do not meet the expectations and demands KODI provides for my use. Obviously, you are in the forum for my guide which begins on page one where the basics are covered. Once you gain basic understanding, you can select links directing further into the guide for your specific setup most likely here
https://forum.kodi.tv/showthread.php?tid...pid2616287. @
Warner306 is another user in these KODI forums. He also provides excellent detailed guides but be prepared for a steep learning curve because he leaves no stone unturned. He does not require the same demands I use on a daily basis so his preferences and emphasis on setups will be different and most likely biased. That said, his approach should be considered when contemplating your own.
(3) I've provided many screenshots. I can see all of them using IE. I can also click these screenshots which take me directly to imgur.com where I've uploaded all of them. Perhaps you've given the graphics insufficient time to load? That said, they load instantly for me. Yes, there is a lot of writing. There is a lot going on. Not only what pertains to you and your unique preferences, but those of others also. I too leave no stone unturned so that everyone may benefit. To enjoy your experience as we do, some effort is required. I've simplified that effort and provided as much as possible here so that you don't have to. You may overlook some of the 'shortcuts' because you didn't bother to read the first post and the links directing you to the next shortcut. For instance, I've provided the settings.bin for madVR which requires no effort setting up madVR other than downloading and applying it. The other files are created as well. Just copy and paste. Various player settings are provided by looking at the screenshots. How to setup your Harmony remote so that KODI and all external players are harmonious with screenshots. Etc., etc. As far as I'm concerned, this is exactly the simple guide that shows what to install and how to configure that you are unable to locate in order to aid you in your quest. I'm open to how to simplify my guide but keep in mind I wrote it before 4k UHD HDR and Windows 10 was even thought of and I try to remain state-of-the-art as new things arrive without abandoning old guides and starting new ones. It's kind of a history of my own journey and I don't prefer to erase the past replacing it with only current affairs especially knowing some users are still in need of past techniques having not upgraded yet. I understand keeping that older diversity around complicates matters but again, what may be sufficient for one user may not be for another.
(4) I do not know all the specific settings for your Samsung. This would be step one before anything else whether using an HTPC or another device. It doesn't matter. Then after calibration you can refine it if need be. You can have a pro do it for you or experiment yourself. Some guidance can most likely be found on the internet by other owners but what they find the best settings may not necessarily equate to anything close to reality as was my experience. Copying the settings of others, pros and enthusiasts alike, produced horrible results in my case. I didn't want to call in a pro or take the advice of others after many, many bad results and instead learned the ins and outs on my own. My advice, make one change at a time and test it thoroughly before moving on to another. Understand how one setting affects another. Use paused videos or pictures during your evaluations and make sure those sources are perfect. Start with reading your manual and learn which setting turns HDR on for the port(s) you are going to use. This is the most important setting to activate for UHD HDR. Avoid modes that predetermine settings for you that often grey out adjustments leading to horrible presentations. Use 4:4:4 aka FULL aka NORMAL RGB preferred. Use NATIVE color settings and avoid custom color balances and white points. Understand SDR calibration carries over to HDR but HDR being its own mode allows different calibration from SDR retained in your panels memory as the two auto switch. Avoid extra calibrations until the basics are applied. Start with the calibration of brightness, contrast, and sharpness before any of those others. I turn the backlight all the way up because I like a nice bright picture and don't watch it only in a cave under the darkest of conditions although I do watch at night in pretty dark conditions a lot and still find it most appealing as do guests. The guide here provides links to a calibration disc you can download and links to how to use it. After calibrating your panel and your nVidia settings (also provided in this guide) run the disc again to double check your work. You will know when your HDR is proper even without ever seeing it before but I would suggest viewing at a store so you have an idea. If what you see leaves any doubt if it is indeed properly showing HDR, then it isn't. You will be wowed immediately when it is. It looks much richer than the best 1080p SDR you ever saw.
I understand your time constraints and limited enthusiasm. I see you just ordered a Shield. The Shield is not going to calibrate for you and it too requires some setup. Your end results will not be on par with an HTPC setup using your GPU. It will be noticeable under various conditions such as 1080p upscaled to 2160p. 2160p in itself cannot be improved on a whole bunch but how it's processed before arriving at your panel can help. How much that improvement is noticeable depends on many factors mainly seating distance and screen size. The Shield and other similar devices are very popular but remember, they appeal to the streaming community as job one. Quality, ownership, and diversity are secondary. Those are job one for HTPC enthusiasts. So you can 'settle' on good enough or do it once correctly and have the best. I believe you did ask for... the best. Good luck in your setup. In the time it took me to write this little saga, I could have done most of it for you via teamviewer. If you have any specific questions, don't hesitate to ask. Myself or another should be able to assist you.
